In late 2016 and early 2017, the popular trekking route of Khao Chang Puak reopened to tourists after being closed due to the presence of wild elephants from neighboring Myanmar. The highlight of this route is the notorious "Knife's Edge," a narrow ridge with steep drops on both sides, offering a thrilling and potentially perilous experience for hikers.


Let's take a look at the regulations for booking a trip to Khao Chang Puak and some recommendations.

1. Reservations can be made up to 7 days in advance.

2. Reservations can be made by calling 0 3451 0979 and 09 8252 0359.

From 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM.

3. A maximum of 10 people can be booked per officer.

Email: [email protected] within 1 day.

5. Register at the Tourist Service Center between 7:00 AM and 8:00 AM.

6. National Park Entrance Fees:

- Service fee for individuals 40 baht (Thai adults)

20 baht (Thai child)

  • Foreigner service fee 200 baht (foreign adult)

100 Baht (for foreign children)

- Vehicle service fee

30 Baht car

Motorcycle 20 baht

- Camping site maintenance fee 30 baht/person/night

7. One safety officer per 10 tourists at 1,800 baht.

A porter can carry a maximum of 30 kilograms of luggage for 1,300 baht.

8. Food should be easy to prepare. Gas picnics are recommended for cooking.

For drinking water, it is recommended to prepare at least 3 liters per person.

10. Restrooms are available on the mountain, but they are pit toilets. It is recommended to bring wet wipes.





Let's take a look at my booking techniques.


Booking Techniques

1. Group Formation and Booking Procedure:

  • Group Size: Up to 10 individuals.
  • Group Communication: Create a LINE group and provide details including names and national identification numbers.
  • Booking Date: Determine a specific date for booking.
  • Booking Process: On the booking date, all group members must begin calling at 8:00 AM. Members should maintain a persistent approach, continuing to call until successful.
  • Booking Confirmation: The member who successfully connects must immediately provide the names and national identification numbers of all group members.

2. I made numerous phone calls, ensuring an uninterrupted connection. I placed approximately 250 calls, successfully connecting with the number 034-510-979.


Despite successfully contacting the park, I was informed that reservations for ten people were unavailable, with only one slot remaining. As a result, I opted to visit the park alone, as I would be unavailable during the subsequent weeks leading up to the anticipated closure of Khao Chang Puak, which typically occurs on January 31st. (Please note that the exact closure date has yet to be confirmed. For updates on the Khao Chang Puak seasonal closure, please refer to the Thong Pha Phum National Park Facebook fanpage.)


This is the origin of my solo trip to conquer Khao Chang Puak with a budget of 1,000 baht.


If you enjoy my reviews, please like and follow my journey on my page: https://www.facebook.com/IWouldGoAnywhereForYou/


**Day 1**

The journey begins in Bangkok. I boarded a van at Sai Tai Mai, Borommaratchachonnani Road (vans are the only option at Sai Tai). The first van departs at 5:00 AM and costs 100 baht. Alternatively, if you are closer to Mo Chit, you can board a van or bus there. The journey takes approximately 1.5 hours. My van departed at 5:00 AM and arrived at Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal at 6:30 AM.

Upon arriving at Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal, I needed to continue my journey to Thong Pha Phum District. There were two options: a public bus for 80 baht and a van. I opted for the van operated by Asia Traiyok, which cost 110 baht. The van departed as soon as it was full. My van left around 7:30 am and arrived in Thong Pha Phum District at 9:00 am. While waiting for the van, I bought snacks at 7-Eleven and grilled pork for a total of 50 baht. I also purchased a large bottle of water for 14 baht.


Upon arrival at Thong Pha Phum District, those who have not yet stocked up on supplies can conveniently purchase them here. The bus will stop near the Thong Pha Phum Market.


To travel from Thong Pha Phum District to Thong Pha Phum National Park or Ban E Tong, there are yellow shared taxis available. There are 2 rounds: 8.30 am and 12.30 pm. There may be an additional round at 3.30 pm during long weekends or festivals. However, the taxis fill up quickly, so it is advisable to arrive early. If you miss the taxi, you can try hitchhiking. There are a fair number of tourist and local vehicles traveling this route.


As the shared taxi departed, it unexpectedly reversed its course towards the junction leading to Sangkhla Buri. Initially perplexed, I realized that there were no gas stations beyond Thong Pha Phum town until Baan E-Tong and Thong Pha Phum National Park. The last gas station is a PTT station located before the three-way intersection leading to Thong Pha Phum or Sangkhla Buri.


If you are driving, it is recommended to fill up your gas tank before heading to Ban E-Tong. During my visit to Thong Pha Phum, I encountered someone who had to hitchhike down from Ban E-Tong due to low fuel. They were planning to camp at Thong Pha Phum National Park and return to Ban E-Tong the next morning.


Despite catching the first train, there weren't enough seats available, so I had to hang on to the back of the train.



The car departs from Thong Pha Phum District at approximately 9:50 AM and arrives at Thong Pha Phum National Park around 12:30 PM.


At Thong Pha Phum National Park, you can register to climb Khao Chang Puak the next day, saving you time in the morning. The cost is 200 baht for a guide and 60 baht for a two-night tent rental (one night at the park and one night on Khao Chang Puak).


Two friendly hornbills greet visitors at this location. They are accustomed to human presence and can be fed with food provided by the staff.


You can then choose where you want to sleep. Here are your options:

1. Pitch a tent at Thong Pha Phum National Park <<< This is my choice because I am traveling alone and did not bring my own car.

2. Pitch a tent at Khao Chang Suk Hill (need to hail a car to get there).

3. Set up tents at the Pileeok Police Station, Ban Ipu.

4. Camp in a tent or stay in a homestay at E-tong village.

For those without a vehicle, it is recommended to stay at Ban E-Tong, the starting point for the trek to Khao Chang Puak. Alternatively, you can stay at Thong Pha Phum National Park and catch a ride with tourists or park rangers to Ban E-Tong in the morning. Thong Pha Phum National Park is located 8 kilometers from Ban E-Tong. You can also stay at Ban E-Pu, which is located approximately 3 kilometers before Ban E-Tong. All vehicles traveling to Ban E-Tong must pass through Ban E-Pu. It is not advisable to stay at Noen Chang Suk without a vehicle, as it is located further away from the main road.


For me, I chose to sleep at Thong Pha Phum National Park (because I was too lazy to go anywhere else that day, haha). The park has a viewpoint where you can see the sea of mist in the morning, and there is also a viewpoint for Khao Chang Phuak, where you can see the entire Khao Chang Phuak mountain range (taking pictures here when the evening light hits Khao Chang Phuak is very beautiful. I regret that I didn't take pictures in time then).

The canteen at Thong Pha Phum National Park also offers free Wi-Fi, although the connection can be intermittent. This may be due to the high number of users during my visit. I had lunch and dinner at the canteen, which serves rice with curry and cooked-to-order dishes for 50 baht per meal, totaling 100 baht.

For tonight, there is Thong Pha Phum National Park, where you can sleep and watch the stars in a cool way like this.

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Financial Summary as of Date 1

Travel expenses 100 + 110 + 70 = 280 baht

Food cost 64 + 50 + 50 = 164 baht

The cost of a guide to climb Khao Chang Puak is 200 baht.

The camping fee at Thong Pha Phum National Park is 30 baht per night.

The camping fee at Khao Chang Puak for 1 night is 30 baht.

Total = 704 Baht

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Day 2

Woke up at 6:30 AM, quickly packed up the tent, and then hitched a ride to Ban E-Tong. I got a ride from an officer who was stationed at the checkpoint before going up to Khao Chang Puak.

Stopped by Baan E-Tong for a special omelette with rice for 35 baht and ordered a stir-fried chicken with basil and fried egg to go for lunch for 40 baht. Also bought two cans of instant noodles for dinner and breakfast on the mountain, and two 1.5-liter bottles of water and two 500-milliliter bottles of water for a total of around 70 baht.

Hikers should bring 3-4 liters of water per person for the ascent of Khao Chang Phuak.


For those who do not wish to carry their own belongings, porters are available at the starting point near the E-Tong house. Each porter can carry up to 30 kilograms of luggage for a fee of 1,300 baht. I chose to carry my own belongings, so there was no additional cost.



After a short walk to break a sweat, you will encounter a checkpoint to verify your registration and ensure you haven't snuck in.

The initial section of the trail is shaded by trees, providing a comfortable walk with cool temperatures and a gentle breeze.

If you encounter a street vendor walking towards you, please step aside to make way for them. They are carrying heavy loads.


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As we continued walking, the path gradually opened up, revealing a less dense landscape with shorter grass. The sun's intensity also increased progressively.


We arrived at our first rest stop, but our stay was brief as there was little shade to be found.


Second stop

The third rest stop, Gibbon Valley. From this point, you can see the campsite, the path leading up to the knife edge ridge, and the highest peak of Khao Chang Puak.

The camping spot is the lowest point on the left side of the image. The knife edge is the jagged area in the center of the image. The highest peak of Khao Chang Phuak is on the right side, with a path leading up to it.


After walking for a while, you will reach the final resting point, the bamboo forest.

After a short walk, you will reach the last hill, Khao Chang Noi. Once you cross this hill, you will reach the campsite.

As you descend from Khao Chang Noi to the campsite, you will be greeted with this breathtaking view.



What awaited me was even more terrifying than the sharp edge of a knife: the "Khao Chang Phuak bathroom."


The total hiking time from the starting point at E-Tong village to the campsite on Khao Chang Puak is approximately 3-4 hours. I started at 9:00 AM and arrived at the campsite at 12:30 PM. After setting up my tent and having lunch, I relaxed until 4:00 PM when the park rangers allowed us to begin the ascent to Khao Chang Puak.

Weather permitting, officials will allow the ascent to the summit of Khao Chang Phuak at 4:00 PM (with preparation instructions given at 3:30 PM). The remaining 1.5 kilometers will be an unforgettable experience, as the path to the peak traverses the legendary "Knife's Edge," a narrow trail with steep drops on either side. *Hikers are advised to bring additional water and a flashlight for the journey from the campsite to the summit of Khao Chang Phuak.*

https://www.facebook.com/IWouldGoAnywhereForYou/videos/1896464277256039/


After passing the knife-edge ridge, the summit of Khao Chang Phuak is just a short walk away.


Reach the summit of Khao Chang Puak, take a picture with the "Khao Chang Puak Conqueror" sign, and enjoy the 360-degree view from the top. Please note that park rangers typically request visitors to descend from the summit around 5:30 AM.


From the summit of Khao Chang Phuak, one can see its twin peak, Khao Chang Phrai, on the opposite side. However, the park authorities do not allow access to Khao Chang Phrai.


Looking back on the path we have traveled,



Upon reaching the campsite, we had dinner. I asked the porters for hot water to cook instant noodles.


Tonight, we're sleeping under the stars. The view from up here is incredible, with a clear view of the night sky. However, the wind is very strong, and when it blows, it sounds like a tsunami. So, make sure to secure your tent stakes properly.

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Summary of expenses for Day 2

The cost of food is 35 + 40 + 70 = 145 baht.

Total: 849 Baht

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Day 3

The descent began at 7:30 AM, arriving in E-tong at approximately 11:30 AM. Restrooms are available at shops and homestays in E-tong for a fee of 10-20 baht, depending on the location. Alternatively, free showers are available at the Pilok Police Station or Thong Pha Phum National Park. I opted to skip showering and waited until returning to Bangkok.

Don't forget to pick up your 'Khao Phuek Conqueror' certificate at Thong Pha Phum National Park.


From E-Tong village to Thong Pha Phum town, there is only one bus at 8:30 AM, so it is impossible to catch it. The only option is to hitchhike down. In my case, I hitched a ride with a group of people who were going up to Khao Chang Puak on the same day. I got off at the Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal. For lunch, I bought some snacks at 7-Eleven when the group stopped at a gas station. The total cost was 45 baht.

At Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal, I bought a ticket for a van to Kanchanaburi - Sai Tai Mai (Happy Win) Sai Tai Kao for 100 baht, but I got on a tour bus instead. It took about 2 hours from Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal to Sai Tai Mai. That's the end of this trip.

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Summary of expenses for November 3

Food cost 45 baht

The bus fare from Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal to Sai Tai Mai is 100 baht.

Total 994 Baht

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