Immerse yourself in the charm of the south, exploring the community-based tourism of the Creative Industry Village (CIV) in Chiang Mai.

Upon first hearing the name "Chom On Tai Community," it may seem unfamiliar to many. Despite frequent trips to Chiang Mai, we often gravitate towards popular tourist destinations.

This was an enriching experience that allowed us to broaden our horizons through travel and gain a deeper understanding of the local way of life and culture. We had the privilege of visiting On Tai, a Creative Industry Village (CIV), where we were immersed in the community's traditions and customs.

CIV: What is a Creative Industry Village?

**Creative Industry Village (CIV)** is a community that balances cultural capital and traditional lifestyles with creativity and design. This approach aims to generate new value for tourism souvenirs and services, creating novel tourism experiences that contribute to economic growth within the creative industries framework.

**CIV Village** is an integrated project involving more than 10 government agencies. The Community Industry Development Office, Department of Industrial Promotion, Ministry of Industry, is assigned as the coordinating unit for organizing industrial village development activities under the Cultural Industry Creation Project.

**In the initial phase of the project,** a working group composed of collaborating agencies and provinces across the country selected nine communities, covering all regions of Thailand, to serve as pilot areas for the initiative. **One of these communities is On Tai.**

**9 pilot communities for creative industrial villages** include:

**(1) On Tai Community**, On Tai Subdistrict, San Kamphaeng District, Chiang Mai Province

(2) Na Kiean Community, Na Kiean Subdistrict, Phu Phiang District, Nan Province

(3) Na Ton Chan Community, Ban Tuek Subdistrict, Si Satchanalai District, Sukhothai Province

(4) Ko Kret Community, Ko Kret Subdistrict, Pak Kret District, Nonthaburi Province.

(5) Ban Sala Din Community, Maha Sawat Subdistrict, Phutthamonthon District, Nakhon Pathom Province

(6) Paknam Prasae Community, Paknam Prasae Subdistrict, Klaeng District, Rayong Province

(7) Ban Chiang Community, Ban Chiang Subdistrict, Nong Han District, Udon Thani Province

(8) Na Tean Community, Ao Nang Subdistrict, Mueang District, Krabi Province

(9) Ko Yo Community, Ko Yo Subdistrict, Mueang District, Songkhla Province

Getting to Know the On Tai Community

Before we delve into the heart of On Tai, let's first familiarize ourselves with this unique community. Located in the district of San Kamphaeng, Chiang Mai province, On Tai (On Tai Sub-district) stands as an ancient town steeped in rich history and captivating legends. Often referred to as the "Land of a Hundred Tales," On Tai embodies the essence of traditional village life, where close-knit communities thrive on mutual respect, compassion, and a shared way of life. This harmonious existence, aptly described as "House of Abundance, City of Tranquility," has made On Tai an irresistible destination, beckoning visitors to experience its captivating charm.

One of the "Hundred Tales" is the discovery of an inscription at Wat Chiang Saen, which serves as evidence that the villagers here migrated from Pannana Puleau, Chiang Saen District (currently in Chiang Rai Province), to settle along the Mae On River. They established a town, produced ceramic tableware, and built their homes on this land until its demise. This area is now known as **Tambon On Tai**.

Furthermore, another story that serves as a source of encouragement and has had a lasting positive impact on the people of the South to this day is the immeasurable kindness and grace of His Majesty the King, who has visited the region on nine separate occasions.

"House of Abundance, City of Tranquility"

The On Tai community symbol features a swirling fish pattern inspired by Sangkhampaeng earthenware. The three fish swimming to the right represent a community that adheres to Buddhism. The leaves or floral patterns in the center symbolize abundance. The accompanying slogan is "A Thousand Rice Fields, A Hundred Tales, On Tai, the Ancient City."

DAY #1 Departure!

Our journey began at Suvarnabhumi Airport in **Bangkok**, where we embarked on an early morning flight to **Chiang Mai**.

After a short flight, we arrived at Chiang Mai Airport and enjoyed lunch at the Aviation Radio Club Restaurant.

Our next destination was the On Tai community in San Kamphaeng district, not far from Chiang Mai city. It took about half an hour to get there. Our first stop was Yak Coffee Shop for a check-in.

**Ruan Yak Kafae** is a coffee shop offering a variety of hot and cold beverages and snacks. It is situated by **Nong Phaya Phrom**, a scenic lake with a pleasant atmosphere.

During the cool mornings or evenings, **Nong Phaya Phrom** is an ideal place to relax or exercise.

Therefore, we can buy fish food to feed the fish in Nong Phaya Phrom. There are a lot of fish there.

We switched to a tram ride, which took us to key points around the On Tai community.

Tourist attractions will have signs indicating the map of the On Sai community, highlighting interesting tourist spots.

We soon arrived at Wat Pa Tueng to pay respects to the Buddha for good fortune. Wat Pa Tueng is a temple over a hundred years old, built in 1882. It is famous for "Luang Pu La Tha Tiw" (Phra Kru Chan Samakun), a forest monk revered by the villagers. It is said that before the major temple renovation, relics and many valuables were discovered, including Sangkhalok ceramics, Buddha statues, and other antiquities around the temple grounds.

We entered the newly constructed Luang Pu La Building, which is distinguished by its striking architecture and beautiful gold-stenciled patterns. However, what truly captivated our attention was the artwork adorning the walls and beams of this building. These paintings vividly depict the history of the temple, as well as the daily lives of the surrounding community.

The ordination hall of the temple has a naga staircase in front.

The Wat Pa Tueng temple grounds house a museum showcasing fragments of Sangkhalok earthenware. In 1952, Professor Kraisri Nimmanahaeminda discovered 83 kilns during an excavation. His findings were published in 1960 under the name "San Kamphaeng kilns." Subsequent excavations by the Fine Arts Department revealed over 300 kilns.

**Sangkhalok Wares with Ridged Walls** flourished during the Sukhothai period, around 1341 CE. Archaeological excavations and chemical analysis of pottery shards discovered in the On Tai sub-district have confirmed the existence of ancient kiln sites dating back to the 19th Buddhist century.

The majority of the discovered ceramics are in the form of jars, tall basins, cups, bowls, and mortars. They are typically light green or greenish-grey in color. Some jars are coated with brown glaze, while others are made of reddish-brown earthenware. Some vessels are coated in a single color, such as dark green, grey, or yellowish-green. Some vessels feature painted designs of single fish, pairs of fish, or groups of fish swimming in circles, either on the inside of the bowl or on the sides. Plant motifs are also present.

Here, we learned the steps involved in making ancient pottery and had a conversation with "Uncle V", a villager from Pa Teng who discovered a large number of Sangkhampaeng pottery fragments. In addition to seeing them with our own eyes, we also had the opportunity to handle some of the preserved pottery, allowing us to feel the texture of the pieces with our own hands.

The next building we encountered was a large teakwood house, which housed the remains of Luang Pu Luang Pu La Tathip.

The nickname "Luang Pu La Tathip" is said to have originated from the following story: One day, when a heavy downpour was imminent, Luang Pu La instructed the monks and novices to evacuate their dilapidated kuti (monks' dwelling) due to the presence of a large palm tree nearby. As predicted, the heavy rain caused the palm tree to collapse, crushing the kuti. Fortunately, all the monks and novices escaped unharmed. This incident led to the belief that Luang Pu La possessed divine sight (tathip).

Inside this temple lies the preserved body of "Luang Pu La Thawipphon". After his passing, his body miraculously remained incorrupt. His disciples and devotees have enshrined his remains in a glass coffin for Buddhist devotees to pay their respects.

From Wat Pa Teng, we took a tram to Wat Chiang Saen, located in Moo 7, Ban Pa Teng. According to the discovered stone inscription, during the reign of King Sri Dhammangkur Maha Chakkrirat or King Yod Chiang Rai, the king of Chiang Mai, ordered Chao Atichan Yawon Boraworasiri (Muean Daab Rueaun), the Rajamontri, to invite villagers to help build a pagoda, cast a Buddha statue, build a Tripitaka hall, and plant a Bodhi tree. The Buddha statue cast is colloquially called "Phra Chao Fon Saen Ha". When the construction was completed, the temple was named "Salak Kalyana Mahantharam" in Pali, which was popular at that time, meaning a great temple with a distinctive Sala tree. Later, the villagers called it Wat Chiang Saen. Currently, the stone inscription is on display at the San Kamphaeng Ceramic Museum, which is located in Wat Pa Teng.

The people of San Kamphaeng district hold Muean Daab Ruean in high esteem, considering him a founding father and religious leader. To commemorate his contributions, a monument was erected in his honor. The monument's face is modeled after the "Phra Phuttha Rup Fon Saen Ha" Buddha statue, which Muean Daab Ruean commissioned. His right hand holds a hoe, symbolizing his role as a pioneer, while his left hand holds a tray with a lit candle, representing his leadership in religion and the light of wisdom.

At Wat Chiang Saen, a pagoda containing relics of the Buddha was discovered, along with stone inscriptions and remnants of kilns used to fire Sangkhalok-style ceramics (dating back to the Sangkhalok period). In 1954, local residents collaborated to restore Wat Chiang Saen, aiming to re-establish it as a spiritual center for the people of southern On.

Behind the Chiang Saen Temple, a mountain range stretches out, resembling a sleeping elephant when one uses their imagination. Hence, it is called Elephant Head Cliff.

Learn the steps of making Sangkhalok ceramics with an ancient kiln, one of the Sankampaeng kilns that still retains its shape.

The firing process begins by placing the finished pottery in the central chamber of the kiln (number 2). Firewood is then added through the opening (number 1). The heat passes through the kiln and smoke is released through the chimney (number 3). Kilns are typically built on hillsides to take advantage of the wind direction for more efficient firing.

We visited exemplary entrepreneurs in the CIV Village project, who successfully integrated cultural capital and traditional lifestyles with creativity and design to create new value for tourism souvenirs and services. We learned about and observed demonstrations of the creative process, even trying our hand at it ourselves. Any questions we had were answered promptly. In every home we visited, we were warmly welcomed with fruits, snacks, and drinks.

Aree Weaving (Pong Weaving Group)

**The Weaving Learning and Demonstration Center** is a community of women artisans who have developed a learning center in On Tai village. The center offers workshops on weaving and fabric processing, from cotton harvesting to spinning, warping, and weaving.

Ecotourism Group of Ban Pong-Huai Lan

The community tourism group was formed due to its proximity to tourism resources and the use of free time to engage in activities such as weaving palm leaves, makingบายศรี, and making herbal compresses.

As the sun begins to set and the wind settles, we arrive at On Tai Farm, a natural farm that raises both crops and animals. The farm boasts an organic vegetable garden that integrates traditional and modern agricultural practices, following the philosophy of His Majesty the King. Visitors can explore the organic vegetable plots and purchase pesticide-free vegetables directly from the farm.

Organic plants present a concept of mixed planting, utilizing technology appropriately and avoiding synthetic chemicals at all stages.

On Tai Farm welcomes you with refreshing fruits and healthy herbal drinks.

I was fortunate to encounter a Kalpapruek tree at Onn Tai Farm during its final bloom before shedding its petals. The Kalpapruek tree bears pink, odorless flowers that are scattered among its branches and young leaves. The flowering season lasts from February to April. When the flowers first bloom, they are pink, then the pink deepens before fading to white before the flowers fall.

As the sun begins its descent, casting long shadows across the farm, a tranquil atmosphere settles over the land. This serene setting offers a perfect spot to unwind and soak in the golden hues of the evening sun.

As the last rays of sunlight faded, we boarded the tram and continued our journey to admire the evening scenery. The tram glided along a road that cut through rice fields, offering a glimpse of the rural landscape. The sight of the fields on either side of the road made us wonder if we had come at the right time to witness the lush green rice paddies.

The daily lives of the community's residents are visible on both sides of the tram's route.

On the left side, you will find another beautiful natural tourist attraction in southern On, Doi Mon Jing, which is nicknamed "Fuji of southern On". On the mountain, there is a helicopter landing pad and a viewpoint that overlooks Mae On district, San Kamphaeng district, and Lamphun city. To reach the viewpoint, you will need to hike up the mountain for about 2 hours.

Standing amidst the evening ambiance, witnessing the sun's descent below the horizon.

As dusk settled in... we embarked on a journey to participate in a significant event at the On Tai Community Early Childhood Development Center. The first thing that greeted us was the lively atmosphere, the smiles, and the warm hospitality of the local residents.

"Hom-Kua Muad" Market: A Delicious and Educational Experience for Kindergarten Students Every Friday, kindergarten students in the community participate in a unique activity called the "Hom-Kua Muad" Market. During this event, children bring homemade snacks, such as "lid-dog" cookies, "bird's nest" cakes, and "wild egg" treats, to sell to their peers. This activity serves multiple purposes: it teaches children about commerce, allows them to assist their parents, and instills valuable lessons about manners and etiquette.

We had the opportunity to try a traditional northern Thai dinner, known as "kin khao laeng khao tok." The meal featured a variety of local dishes that were both visually appealing and delicious. Our favorite dish was undoubtedly the "kaep moo" (deep-fried pork skin) served with "nam phrik ong" (northern Thai chili dip). It was so good that we couldn't resist asking for more.

We were warmly welcomed by the host with a traditional Southern Thai performance. The locals were friendly and cheerful, making us feel especially warm and welcome. We enjoyed a meal amidst the atmosphere of light, color, sound, and traditional northern music. It was a truly memorable evening.

DAY #2

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Waking up to a new morning with a pleasant atmosphere on the balcony of Alpine Golf Resort Chiang Mai. Even though it's entering the hot season, the morning air is always refreshing.

After taking care of personal matters, showering, and having breakfast, we had a choice to make: either take the tram tour in the On Tai community like we did before, or cycle along the designated route on the map. In the end, however, we stuck to our original plan and took a comfortable ride on the tram.

Today's program will focus on products from model entrepreneurs in the CIV Village project, as follows:

Weaving Words of Happiness

Led by "Uncle Kamsook," a group of senior citizens skilled in weaving fishing tools and coconut broomsticks, experimented with transforming large objects into miniature versions. This initiative aims to attract tourists and provide them with an opportunity to learn about traditional handicrafts.

House of the Couple Fish and Bird

A husband-and-wife team, "พี่ปลากับพี่นก," known for their traditional ceramic painting inspired by San Kamphaeng pottery, have adapted their style to incorporate their "ปลาคู่นก" (fish and bird) logo. This new approach has attracted younger tourists, who can also observe the intricate painting techniques used on the pottery.

Sapa

**Sappa** signifies "a wide variety," aligning with the diverse range of processed fabric products, including fabric dolls, keychains, and jingle shell straps. It incorporates the symbol of the On Sai community, a fish, to create community souvenirs.

Weaving (Umbrella Rope Bag Group)

A group of women skilled in crocheting paracord into various bag designs. Paracord is an affordable material.

Crispy Rice Crackers with Beautiful Words

Watermelon Rice Crackers

This recipe features watermelon rice crackers with a twist: they are molded into the shape of fish, symbolizing the On Tai community. The crackers are made with a simple sugar syrup, eliminating the need for a topping, making them ideal for souvenirs.

The Pa Tong Housewives Group

A group of housewives who have come together to make chili paste for serving to tourists and selling within the community.

Kasem Chasamunpai, Hedyotis corymbosa (Ban Pa Tueng Mixed Farming Community Enterprise)

"Uncle Kasem" transforms herbs into herbal drinks. He visits the herb garden to learn about using herbs to maintain the health of people in the south.

Amidst the sweltering midday heat, we arrived at the Huay Lan Reservoir, a royal initiative project for the development of the Huay Lan area in Chiang Mai province. His Majesty the King visited the Huay Lan area in Ban Pong, Village No. 8, and inspected the Mae Phaen Reservoir project in On Tai Subdistrict, San Kamphaeng District, Chiang Mai Province on February 16, 1987, and March 5, 1987. He instructed the development of the Huay Lan area in San Kamphaeng District, Chiang Mai Province, and the construction of the Huay Lan Reservoir to supply water to the On Tai Subdistrict area. The reservoir was to be completed in time to store water during the rainy season. Two additional small reservoirs, Doi To Reservoir and Huay Pa Rai Reservoir, were also to be constructed to supply water for forestry and fisheries development activities.

And this place also has an important tradition, the Bong Fai Festival, which is a ceremony to ask for water and rain. This festival was originally held in many districts of Chiang Mai province, but was later cancelled due to safety concerns caused by the city's expansion. The Bong Fai Festival is currently held only in On Tai Sub-district, where the Huay Lan Reservoir is used as the area for lighting the bonfire during the ceremony.

During the morning or evening hours, the Huai Lan Reservoir is an ideal place to relax, cycle, or jog for exercise and well-being.

Not far from the Huai Lan Reservoir, we arrived at the White Elephant Memorial, a memorial to "Plai Phubalrat", a baby elephant born on January 30, 1965, at 2:00 AM. His mother was named Phang Kampo, and his father was named Plai Buncho. The Bureau of the Royal Palace inspected the elephant and found it to be in accordance with the Krachalakshana scriptures. It was therefore declared a white elephant and presented to His Majesty the King and Her Majesty the Queen on January 17, 1966. The Bureau of the Royal Palace stipulated that Plai Phubalrat would be raised with his parents for five years before being moved to Bangkok. However, the baby elephant fell ill and died in February 1967, at the age of two years and a few months. This caused great sadness among the local people, and the White Elephant Memorial was built in his honor.

Continuing our journey, we concluded our trip at the **Tao On Tai Art Garden**, a captivating venue. This art space belongs to **"Teacher Anan,"** a local wisdom teacher with extensive knowledge of art, culture, and the narratives of the On Tai people. Here, visitors are welcomed to learn clay sculpting or create their own artwork, taking home their creations as souvenirs.

Here, we have witnessed the creation of artistic works in various disciplines. We have seen young students who use their free time from school to study art, to enhance their imagination and translate it into artistic works through drawing, sculpting, reading, writing, and learning music. This is a way to make good use of free time and is also a valuable life experience.

In addition to the aforementioned tourism activities, the On Tai community offers a wide range of other exciting experiences, including learning about local wisdom, visiting historical sites, hiking, and exploring nature. These are just a few of the many reasons why we highly recommend visiting and experiencing this vibrant community.

Finally, it is time for us to bid farewell to the On Tai community. During our two-day stay here, we have found that the On Tai community has a fascinating way of life and stories. As the saying goes, "Panna Pulao, a hundred stories, the old town of On Tai" is truly fitting. There are still many aspects and stories that we are unaware of, which will require more time to learn. We hope to have the opportunity to return in the future and hear more stories about the old town of On Tai.

Information on On Tai Community Tourism

Mr. Praves Pothita (Mayor of On Tai Subdistrict) Tel. 099 485 9559

Mr. Sanit Phiratha Tel. 093 130 7157

Mr. Jinda Yakham, Tel. 082 187 2452

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Chailai Backpacker: Adventure Travel

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