"Sing Buri" is another province that many people see as just a passing city, and I myself am one of those people. I must confess that in the more than 45 years I have lived in Lopburi, I have not visited "Sing Buri" more than 3 times. I mostly use Sing Buri as a passage to other provinces. However, when "Sing Buri" was one of the 55 provinces that the Tourism Authority of Thailand announced as a secondary city, following the "Secondary City Tourism" campaign, I started to look for tourist attractions in Sing Buri. And it's almost unbelievable!!! Sing Buri has much more to offer than I thought. Sing Buri has many interesting things to offer, so follow me!
Our first stop is Wat Sawang Arom in Mueang Sing Buri district.
The Wat Sawang Arom temple, also known as Wat Bang Mon, is situated on the left bank of the Chao Phraya River in the Don Pho sub-district. Established around 1875, the temple was founded and led by Phra Kru Singhamuni (Ruang). Wat Sawang Arom serves as a hub for various artistic disciplines, including education, construction of the main hall, viharn, and sala, and notably, the sculpting of Buddha statues. The temple's sculpting techniques are inherited from the renowned Ban Chang Lo Thonburi family. Due to its proximity to the Chao Phraya River, the temple occasionally experiences flooding, causing damage to the main hall and viharn. The old main hall and viharn contain replicas of Buddha's footprints and murals, though only fragments remain visible today.
The highlight of Wat Sawang Arom is undoubtedly this building. On the second floor, you will find the Shadow Puppet Museum. The collection of ancient shadow puppets, believed to date back to the Ayutthaya period, was meticulously assembled by Phra Kru Singhamuni, affectionately known as Luang Pho Rueang.
Local artisans also contributed to the restoration and creation of new puppets to replace the missing and damaged ones. During that era, a traveling puppeteer named Kru Pia, who used a boat as his mode of transportation along the Chao Phraya River, established his base and performed at Wat Sawang Arom. He presented his shadow puppets as a gift to Luang Pho Rueang. Kru Pia also passed on the art of shadow puppetry to the descendants of Wat Sawang Arom.
Another key figure in Wat Sawang Arom is Khun Bang Mon Kichapramuan (Nom Supanakorn). He inherited the Nang Yai performance and taught his descendants to continue it. This period is considered the golden age of Nang Yai.
The popularity of Nang Yai performances gradually declined, possibly due to the advancement of modern forms of entertainment introduced from abroad and various other factors.
The ancient art of shadow puppetry is experiencing a revival in the village of Wat Sawang Arom. Descendants of the village's residents have come together to restore the tradition, led by village headman Chorn Supanakorn, who is the current puppeteer. Over 200 puppets have been repaired, and approximately 40 new ones have been carved by A-Wut Supanakorn.
The Shadow Puppet Museum: A Cultural Treasure Open to All
The Shadow Puppet Museum welcomes visitors free of charge every day. From Monday to Friday, the museum is open from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. On Saturdays and Sundays, the hours are extended from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.
To ensure the museum's continued operation and accessibility for all Thais, donations are gratefully accepted. A donation box is located at the museum entrance. Every contribution, no matter how small, helps sustain this vital cultural institution and preserve the rich tradition of shadow puppetry in Thailand.
During my visit, children who appeared to be from Wat Sawang Arom temple approached me and asked if I would like to see a Nang Talung performance. I eagerly nodded in response. The children quickly dressed up in red chong kben and performed for my group. Although the performance was not as elaborate or impressive as the one I had seen at Wat Khanon in Ratchaburi province, I was impressed by the children's enthusiasm and dedication to preserving the Nang Talung tradition at Wat Sawang Arom. If you have already had the opportunity to see a Nang Talung performance at Wat Khanon, I encourage you to consider visiting Wat Sawang Arom in Singburi province for a different experience. Let's all support the efforts of the Wat Sawang Arom community to keep this tradition alive.
Previously, I was unaware of the existence of shadow puppetry in Sing Buri. However, after attending a lecture at the Shadow Puppet Museum at Wat Khanon in Ratchaburi (which I have visited three times), I learned that only a few shadow puppet museums remain open to the public. One of these museums is the Shadow Puppet Museum at Wat Sawang Arom.
From Wat Sawang Arom, we continue to Bang Krabue Subdistrict, where Wat Prachotikaram is located.
Wat Phra Chotika Ram is an ancient temple in Sing Buri province, Thailand. It is the only temple in Thailand that houses a pair of standing Buddha statues. The temple was renovated in 2009 and completed in 2013. I had the opportunity to speak with Phra Khru Kasem Thammachote, the abbot of Wat Phra Chotika Ram. He told me about the history of the temple and the renovation of the Wihan Luang Pho Sin, Wihan Luang Pho Thap, and the Mondop, which houses the standing Buddha statues. During the excavation around the Wihan Luang Pho Sin and Mondop Luang Pho Thap, an ancient wall was discovered 3 meters below the surface. The wall is decorated with stucco moldings of chofa, bai raka, and a base called than phaithi, which was used to surround the ubosot, wihan, or mondop during the Sukhothai period. The wall is estimated to be over 700 years old and is approximately 20 meters long. It has two levels. The second level is believed to have been built by villagers to prevent flooding. They may have raised the wall and added soil to prevent water from reaching the Buddha statues. Alternatively, they may have expanded the wall to create a wider space for monks to walk in circles. Behind the old ubosot, the remains of a stupa were found. The base of the stupa is octagonal and is estimated to have been approximately 18 meters tall. However, there are signs that the stupa was looted for relics around 1957.
The text describes a unique feature of a temple in Thailand, where two Buddha statues, Luang Pho Trai and Luang Pho Sin, stand together. Luang Pho Trai is positioned behind Luang Pho Sin, creating the illusion of a single statue. The text explains that visitors who are unaware of the temple's history might only worship Luang Pho Sin, as Luang Pho Trai is hidden from view.
The image shows the Phra That. The abbot said that the Phra That and Phra Sin were originally in separate buildings, but after the temple was renovated, they were combined into one building. Currently, the Phra That is starting to lean forward. This is due to flooding and road expansion, which caused vibrations. As a result, the Phra That has begun to lean.
This is Luang Pho Sin.
After the restoration was completed, it was said that the mystery of the Dhamma was revealed. The small Phra Sin Buddha statue was placed in a large and magnificent room, while the larger Luang Pho Trai statue was placed in a cramped and confined room. Both of his arms were stuck to the wall, and even his head was stuck. He had been able to stand in this uncomfortable position for over 700 years. If anyone has problems or feels uncomfortable, they can come and vent their feelings and make one wish. It was said that he did not recommend asking for anything, because if everyone got everything they wished for, there would be no place to store it, as people's desires are endless. There are two groups of people who visit the temple: those who are at ease and those who are suffering. Those who are at ease will worship the Buddha and smile, admire the art and the construction methods, and appreciate the faith of the ancients. They will rejoice in the merit. The other group consists of those who have minor sufferings. They will go to each temple and make random wishes. The more they go, the more confused they become. Therefore, when they come to this temple, they are asked to vent their suffering first. When people vent their suffering, their hearts will feel lighter. When their hearts are lighter, their mindfulness will return. When their mindfulness returns, they will understand the cause of their problems. Then, they can ask Luang Pho to help. Asking Luang Pho for a wish is a source of encouragement.
The abbot further recounted that the restoration of the bricks led to the discovery of ancient relics, inspiring the construction of a new Buddha statue modeled after the one at Wat Traimit. After its completion, the statue was named "Phra Phuttha Suwannamongkol Samrit Phol Than Jai," making the temple home to not only wealth and treasures but also a "wish-fulfilling Buddha." The statue depicts the Buddha in a seated posture, with his right hand resting on his right knee and his left hand on his lap. To make a wish, one must stand up, bow with their forehead touching the tip of the Buddha's fingers, and then place their fingers under the Buddha's hand while making their wish. This act is believed to provide strength and motivation. The abbot noted that he does not promise the fulfillment of wishes but rather offers "encouragement," suggesting that simply waiting for divine intervention is not enough. He emphasizes the importance of taking action to achieve one's desires, with the wish serving as a source of motivation and inspiration.
From Wat Prachotikaram, we continue to Wat Kadangnga Buppharam, a temple built during the Ayutthaya period. It is believed that the temple was built by a high-ranking military officer of King Maha Thammaracha, the father of King Naresuan the Great. The temple was built as a memorial to the officer's atonement for his sins in battle and as a place to gather the ashes of his ancestors. The officer also ordained as a monk at this temple and was known as "Luang Pho Ueng".
The Wat Kadang Nga Buppa Ram temple boasts several points of interest. The first is the modern-style church built on the foundation of the old prayer hall.
The Bell-Shaped Chedi of Yuthahatthi
This bell-shaped chedi, built in the Lanna style, resembles the chedis of early Ayutthaya period. Its bell-shaped niches begin from the "plai chaai" (a decorative element) upwards. It is considered the most complete chedi among those built in the same era and has been registered as an ancient monument by the Fine Arts Department.
Nearby stands an ancient "hongsa" (swan) pillar, with only one original pillar remaining. However, a replica has been constructed and stands beside the original.
The origin and purpose of the pavilion remain unknown.
The Maha Udom Hall: Inside this hall, I had the opportunity to speak with the abbot. He explained that the Maha Udom Hall is a temple with an entrance but no exit. According to ancient lore, the Maha Udom Hall was used to bless weapons before going into battle. Inside, there is a statue of Luang Pho Ueng Pak Daeng, along with 22 other Buddha statues. The most notable feature is the Buddha statue in the early Sukhothai style, Luang Pho Pak Daeng. According to a survey by the Department of Fine Arts, Luang Pho Pak Daeng has far-sighted eyes, implying that he is looking to the future rather than the present. He has red lips, a small nose, arched eyebrows, and large ears that can hear everything. His right ear is about 7-9 centimeters longer than his left ear, signifying that he should listen carefully. His expression is a half-smile, half-serious, depending on the viewer's perspective. If you look at him with a smile, he will smile back. If you look at him with a serious expression, he will look serious. He has no dimples and has a Lanna style. The Department of Fine Arts has declared him the deity of the Chao Phraya River Basin. (There is a sign inside the Maha Udom Hall prohibiting photography, but I received permission from the abbot to take pictures.)
The Wat Kadang Nga Buppa Ram temple also houses a collection of brass alms bowls. Unfortunately, the abbot had to leave on an urgent matter and was unable to show me the collection.
From Wat Kadang Nga Buppaharam, we continue to Wat Phra Non Chaksi Worawihan, located in Chaksi Subdistrict, about 5 kilometers from Sing Buri city.
Wat Phra Non Chaksi houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand. Its construction is believed to date back to the Ayutthaya period, though the exact builder remains unknown. Records indicate that in 1649, King Narai the Great visited the temple and stayed for a month. Upon his return to Ayutthaya, he ordered the restoration of the reclining Buddha statue. Further renovations were undertaken during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.
The Reclining Buddha of Chaksi is a Sukhothai-style reclining Buddha statue in the posture of subduing the Asura King. It is 47.40 meters long and faces north. It is considered a significant historical landmark and a revered symbol of Singburi province.
The viharn houses not only the reclining Buddha, but also the sacred Phra Kaew (left) and Phra Kal (right), both of which are seated Buddha statues made of stone and covered in gold leaf. These two statues date back to the reign of King Rama V and were used as the presiding Buddha images during the water-pouring ceremony for civil servants. The viharn also contains many other interesting features, including a reliquary and a museum that displays a variety of artifacts, including rare antiquities.
In front of the temple, there are large wax figures of Luang Pu Mun, Luang Pu Thuat, Luang Pho Pan (Wat Bang Nom Kho), Luang Pho Sot Chantharos, Luang Pho Ngern (Wat Bang Khlan), and Luang Pu Sukh (Wat Makham Tao) for devotees to pay respect and worship.
Adjacent to the temple is a must-see market, a market selling souvenirs from Sing Buri, where the best and most prominent products are sold, such as dried snakehead fish, fermented fish, and various kinds of snacks, for you to choose and bring back as souvenirs for your family.
Before leaving, don't forget to pay respects at the central Buddha statue in the middle of the water. It is located in front of the temple.
From Mueang district, continue to Tha Chang district to visit Wat Pikul Thong.
Pikul Thong Temple: A Place of Reverence and Beauty
Nestled in the Wihan Daeng district, approximately 9 kilometers from the renowned Wat Phra Non Chaksi, lies Pikul Thong Temple. This sacred site holds immense significance for the people of Sing Buri, who revere it as a testament to the profound contributions of Luang Pho Pae, the temple's former abbot.
Luang Pho Pae's unwavering dedication to Buddhism and his tireless efforts in preserving the temple's grandeur have earned him the unwavering respect and admiration of the local community. Through his guidance and leadership, Pikul Thong Temple has been transformed into a beacon of beauty and spiritual solace, a place where devotees seek solace and inspiration.
The temple's pristine condition, a testament to Luang Pho Pae's meticulous care, stands as a symbol of the enduring legacy he has left behind. The reverence with which the locals refer to Pikul Thong Temple as "Wat Luang Pho Pae" reflects the deep gratitude they hold for the transformative impact he has had on their lives and their community.
The Phra Phuttha Suwannamongkhon Mahamuni, also known as Luang Pho Yai, is a Sukhothai-style Buddha statue in the posture of bestowing blessings. It has a lap width of 11 wa, 2 sok, and 7 inches, and a height of 21 wa, 3 kub, and 11 inches. Constructed from reinforced concrete, the statue is adorned with 24-karat gold mosaics from Italy, giving it a radiant golden hue. It is considered one of the largest Buddha statues in Thailand.
Adjacent to the Phra Buddha Suwanna Mongkol Maha Muni is a vihara, which houses a large statue of Luang Pho Pae Khemangaro, the former abbot of Wat Pikul Thong. Luang Pho Pae was highly respected by the people of Sing Buri for his contributions to the community, and he is considered the "deity of the Noi River basin."
From Tha Chang District, we continue to Ban Rai District to visit the Ban Rai Retro Thai Market.
The Banrajarn Retro Thai Market is located in Wat Pho Khao Ton, Bang Rachan Subdistrict, Khai Bang Rachan District. It is an ancient market packed with a variety of food.
The Ban Rajan Retro Thai Market is open every Saturday, Sunday, and public holiday from 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM.
The merchants in this market are all dressed in traditional Thai clothing, making visitors feel like they have traveled back in time to ancient times.
There is also a stage show in the middle of the water. Around noon, you can buy food and sit by the river to enjoy the show while eating. It's a lot of fun.
The market offers a wide variety of food, both for immediate consumption and takeaway. Many of the dishes are commonly found elsewhere, but the presentation using natural materials enhances their value and visual appeal, making them a perfect fit for this retro market. It is recommended to visit the market around 10-11 am to explore the offerings and plan your meals. Designated dining areas are available within the market, or you can enjoy your food while watching the riverside performances, as mentioned earlier.
Before returning, let's take a quick look at Wat Pho Kaeo Ton, also known as Wat Mai Daeng. This temple was originally a stronghold for the villagers of Bang Rachan during their resistance against the Burmese invasion of Ayutthaya in 1765. It houses the Wihan of Phra Ajarn Thammachote Rangsi, where a sculpture of Phra Ajarn Thammachote is enshrined. He was a spiritual leader and source of strength for the Bang Rachan warriors, inspiring them to fight and ultimately achieve victory against the enemy.
Many people come to pay respects, worship, and make offerings to Professor Thammachote. When their wishes are granted, they return to fulfill their vows by carrying water in buckets, the number of which corresponds to their vow.
From Khai Bang Rachan district, continue to Bang Rachan district to visit the Mae Nam Noi kiln site.
The Mae Nam Noi Kilns: A Historical Overview
The Mae Nam Noi kilns are believed to have originated during the early Ayutthaya period, under the reign of King Borommarachathirat I. Historical accounts suggest that the king's military campaigns in the north, particularly against Sukhothai-controlled territories, resulted in the capture and relocation of skilled potters to the Mae Nam Noi region.
Alternatively, Chinese historical records document that Chao Phraya Intharawichayanon, then Viceroy of Suphan Buri, was granted permission by the Chinese emperor to bring Chinese potters to Siam during his diplomatic mission to China. This influx of expertise is believed to have significantly contributed to the development of the Mae Nam Noi pottery industry.
The kilns produced a diverse range of ceramic wares, including four-eared jars, mortars, bottles, vases, water pipes, and architectural components. These artifacts provide valuable insights into the technological advancements and artistic expressions of the Ayutthaya period.
The Mae Nam Noi kilns are large, brick-built kilns with a boat-shaped design, hence their nickname "boat kilns." They feature a sloping heat dissipation system. Excavations and restorations by the Fine Arts Department revealed a collapsed roof section, but the remaining structures provide a glimpse into the past. Approximately nine kilns have been excavated and restored, making this site a must-see for visitors to Sing Buri.
From Khai Bang Rachan district, we will continue to In Buri district. I will take you to visit a small temple by the Chao Phraya River, which is Wat Sai, another highlight of Sing Buri.
**Wat Trai**, also known as Wat Tayan, is located in the sub-district of Chi Nam Rai. It is believed to have been built during the Ayutthaya period. Today, only ruins remain. However, the temple's unique feature is its **banyan tree roots**, which have enveloped the walls of the chapel, preventing it from collapsing. The chapel is a **Maha Udom** style, meaning it has only one entrance and exit. The temple hall has unfortunately collapsed into the water.
The interior of the temple houses the principal Buddha statue, originally known as Luang Pho Khao or Luang Pho Thayan by the local villagers. However, it is now called Luang Pho Wat Sai, after the temple's name, Wat Sai. According to legend, the statue was originally made of stucco over a wooden frame. Later, Burmese soldiers burned the statue to melt and steal the gold, leaving only the stucco frame. The statue also lost its head. Subsequently, the villagers collected donations to restore the missing head of the Buddha statue.
I have seen temples of this style before at two temples: Wat Bang Kung in Samut Songkhram Province and Wat Sangkathai in Ang Thong Province. I never thought I would see a temple of this style in Sing Buri Province.
From Wat Sai, continue to the last temple, Wat Muang.
I am not mistaken in my typing. **"Wat Muang"** in Sing Buri Province. Although the size of Wat Muang in Sing Buri Province cannot be compared to the grandeur of Wat Muang in Ang Thong Province, Wat Muang in Sing Buri Province also has its own charm. It is assumed that this temple was the first to be built in In Buri District. Throughout its history, important figures have always visited Wat Muang, from kings and members of the royal family to the Supreme Patriarch, etc. This has made Wat Muang a temple that is synonymous with In Buri.
The most intriguing feature of Wat Muang is a small, ancient viharn. This rectangular viharn boasts a pediment adorned with various ceramic vessels.
The vihara houses a beautiful Buddha statue in the Mara-Vijaya posture. The walls are adorned with murals painted in earth tones by local artisans, believed to date back to the reign of King Rama IV. These murals depict scenes from the life of Buddha and the daily life of ancient society. Despite their incomplete state, the murals' vivid colors and sharp details left a lasting impression on me. This temple is a must-visit for anyone traveling to Intburi.
Many things I encountered in this review, I never thought I would find in the province of Singburi, a small province that I have always overlooked. This weekend, if you don't have any plans to go anywhere, try visiting Singburi. A city that you have to set your mind to, to get there.
Finally, you can show your support and follow my work on my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/unclegreenshirt.
ลุงเสื้อเขียว
Wednesday, February 26, 2025 4:29 PM