Hello, friends.
This time, we're revisiting Lake Baikal in Russia, a popular tourist destination with numerous reviews on Pantip.com.
However, the highlight of this trip was "riding a car across Lake Baikal!"
That's right… I took a car across… you read that right…
Drive across the lake when it is completely frozen in winter.
Descending to the deepest point of the lake, 1,642 meters, is equivalent to the height of approximately 547 floors of a building.
This is the deepest freshwater lake in the world...
...on the ice surface, which is about 80-120 cm thick. (This is what the guide told me.)
At temperatures below negative 30 degrees Celsius...
Embark on a journey to new places and experiences. Discover the excitement and joy that awaits you.
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The icy surface is slippery. If you don't believe me, try it yourself.
Origin and development
Lake Baikal is typically visited on the western side of Olkhon Island and the town of Listvyanka, where the lake's waters flow out.
...How did this trip come about? ....
The Instagram post depicts a Westerner cycling across a lake and camping in the middle of it.
Is that even possible?
After inquiring with the guide, the response was that it was possible, but it depended on the condition of the ice.
Is it dangerous? Yes, it is dangerous. However, local guides are experienced and have navigated this route every year. It is a normal occurrence, but the guides must be truly skilled.
(This is believable because I encountered it myself during my travels. More details will be provided below.)
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Blood begins to pump... the desire to go shoots up... very interesting...
"I consulted with the guide, expressing my desire to cross the lake."
The guide asked if I was serious, as there weren't many foreign tourists crossing the border. He said it was mostly locals and some Russians.
Immediately responded with... This is it... Take... Skip... As follows...
Itinerary:
Direct flights from Bangkok to Irkutsk, Russia, are available with S7 Airlines.
From Olkhon Island (Khuzhir), we crossed Lake Baikal by car to Ust-Barguzin. We then continued to Ulan Ude, where we boarded the Trans-Siberian Railway for a portion of the journey to Irkutsk. Finally, we flew from Irkutsk to Bangkok.
Our trip took place between February 13th and 19th, 2018. However, the condition of the ice is unpredictable and may not always be suitable for driving. It is crucial to check the conditions before embarking on any journey.
In addition to crossing Lake Baikal, I also took a short ride on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Although it was brief, it was still a good way to experience the atmosphere for a while.
Day 1: Arrival in Irkutsk, Russia
Arriving in Irkutsk after midnight, I headed straight to bed.
Day 2: Irkutsk - Olkhon Island
Departing from Irkutsk, but with a brief stop at a significant location within the city.
On the banks of the Angara River and the Sobor Bogoyavleniya Church, an Orthodox church.
Photography inside the building requires prior permission from the staff. Photography with the interior of the church is prohibited.
+ Men must remove their hats when entering the church, while women must cover their hair with a scarf.
The morning by the Angara River, which flows through the city of Irkutsk, the temperature is below zero, the water should be ice, but it is water.
The reason the river doesn't freeze is because there is a power plant located upstream from this city.
The journey continues to Olkhon Island, with the final destination being Khuzhir town...
Before crossing to the island, we switched from a minibus to a van that was previously used by the Russian military...
The first touch on the frozen surface of Lake Baikal was a thrilling experience.
Dragon Tail, another highlight that you shouldn't miss when visiting Baikal.
Dusk falls upon the town of Khuzhir... The biting cold reminds me to prepare for tomorrow's journey across the lake.
Day three of the journey. Today we will cross Lake Baikal.
A morning view of Khuzhir town from the hotel room. It looks so cold that I wouldn't dare to put my hand outside the room...
However, the locals seem to be taking it easy.
While waiting for the car to pick me up at ten o'clock, I took a walk to the viewpoint first.
Let's go... we can set off now...
Drive across Olkhon Island to reach the other side, before crossing the lake...
We have reached the other side of Olkhon Island before crossing...
A crystal-clear glacial lake...
Before driving down to the lake, the air hostess (driver) demonstrated how to survive and stay safe in case the car sank. Hmm...
Demonstration completed... let's get started.
After driving for about 15 minutes, we stopped for lunch on the ice. It was amazing!
Original ice cracks...
However, while we were enjoying ourselves…
A loud bang echoed, the ice vibrated, and the cracking of ice followed.
Splash! He fell into the water with a big splash.
Everyone froze...calmly looking towards the source of the sound...checking their own legs to see if the ice they were standing on had cracked!! 555+
The sound of ice cracking against each other. That's it...
The guide and the driver... didn't react much, just looked and smiled... laughed... It's normal...
However, our hearts sank momentarily.
The excitement has begun!
After finishing our meal, we embarked on the next leg of our journey.
As the sun began its descent, casting long shadows across the icy landscape, the urgency to reach our destination before nightfall intensified. The treacherous path ahead, riddled with potential crevasses, demanded our utmost caution and swiftness.
If it's dark, you won't be able to see. It's very dangerous... the guide said...
This morning's departure at 10:00 AM was due to the vehicle picking us up crossing over from the side we were heading to, as a final route confirmation.
As we journeyed, we followed the same path that the experienced driver had taken earlier that morning.
A long journey, as far as the eye can see... where is the destination... traveling on the water, the shore is nowhere to be found... 55+
Driving on ice is not a straightforward task. Drivers must constantly navigate around obstacles, such as broken ice floes, which requires a high level of skill and experience.
…The car finally came to a stop in the middle of a vast, seemingly endless lake…
--- The deepest point of Lake Baikal ---
At this point, the depth is 1,642 meters.
The guide said that if you haven't done this activity, you haven't truly arrived in Baikal... That is, open a vodka bar in the middle of the lake...
Our car wasn't the only one parked like this; other cars were doing the same. It seems serious...
This crack looks scary 55+ because we are in the middle of Baikal, you know.
It's time to continue our journey, or else it will be dark soon.
As the sun began to set, casting long shadows across the path ahead....
The driver immediately slammed on the brakes, and all the following vehicles came to a complete stop.
Guess what I found...
---The ice sheets are breaking apart. ----
Oh no... This crack just appeared... The ice isn't strong enough to cross yet... Come onnnnnnnnnnnnnn.....
How did they know...that this part was broken....
The guide pointed out, "See that fluffy snow over there? Look closely, that's where the crevasse just opened... Oh, there it goes..."
The water from the bottom of Lake Baikal will rise and meet the cold air, creating a fluffy snow-like effect.
Some areas are still flooded... If it had burst a long time ago, it wouldn't be so swollen. It would be clear.
As a true professional...
Each vehicle dispersed, following the cracks in search of a crossing point.
Both the vehicles that arrived earlier and those that followed... without any prior communication...
Suddenly, a car honked its horn repeatedly.
As if to say, "Hey, this way is clear... you can pass through..."
All vehicles converged at a single point to cross… Some vehicles found a crossing point and crossed separately…
Fill the small cracks with crushed ice...
Wow... is this really allowed?...
Everyone got off the car and walked across. Some of the children walked in the wrong spot where the ice was not yet solid, and they ended up falling into the water.
Feeling happy and lucky all of a sudden. - -"
Fortunately, I was able to witness a breathtaking sunset over Lake Baikal. It was truly a magical experience.
They had to continue their journey before sunset, as encountering another crack in the road would be extremely dangerous.
The journey finally reached the town of Ust-Barguzin at almost six o'clock, covering a distance of approximately 60 kilometers across the lake safely.
Tonight, rest and relax from the excitement... while enjoying the beauty of the middle of Lake Baikal....
Tomorrow, we journey onward to another breathtaking destination…
Day four: Today's mission is to find beautiful ice caves.
Last night, we stayed in a homestay because there were no hotels in the village area.
The homeowner, with a warm smile and cheerful demeanor, inquired through the guide, " ..."
"How did you decide to visit here in the winter? It's incredibly cold, you know. Back then, the temperature must have been around -25 to -37 degrees Celsius."
We replied that Thailand does not have snow or ice like this. And right now, the temperature in our country is 37 degrees Celsius, so we came here.
The journey began early in the morning, searching for stunning ice caves. However, the exact location and accessibility of these caves remain a secret, as they are subject to changing weather conditions and the state of the caves themselves.
The structure is not technically a cave, but rather a protruding rock formation with a lower water level than the rock itself. When the water freezes, it remains below the rock, effectively creating a cave-like environment.
This village is truly cold. Snow is a regular occurrence, but encountering sunshine is a real joy.
One day, I took a car into the forest.... which was still very much intact.
The driver suddenly stopped the car and said, "Come here, I want to show you something."
To feed the birds in their natural habitat.
The breathtaking view from the lookout point was tantalizing, but the biting cold made it impossible to take photos.
When driving, I'm not always sure whether...
Where are we? Is this a road or a lake?...
We are in the middle of the lake. This is a boat.
After a satisfying lunch, the journey continued…
Driving along, a new path suddenly appears. Wait a minute, we're in the middle of a lake. Can we drive anywhere we want?
The final stop is here, where we will witness the unique fishing techniques of the Russian people.
The ice had already been drilled through to set the fishing net. Now it was time to check it.
Three fish were caught. It's a way of life, I guess. The fish froze on the ice, gradually solidifying before our eyes, becoming completely motionless.
However, I have to admit that he is quite skilled. He can dive into the water empty-handed and retrieve items, even with gloves on. It's quite impressive.
Let's observe the thickness of the ice where they are drilling.
Visually, it appears to be no more than 50 cm in length.
However, do you remember that at the beginning, the road was wide enough for cars to drive, about 80-120 cm? But here it is only 50 cm, which makes one wonder how it got this narrow.
The driver took a relaxed approach, navigating haphazardly and creating new paths. This is the true local way.
We continued our journey to find the ice cave, and we found it as shown below.
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Looking up, it's a bit scary. I've watched too many movies. I'm afraid it will break and fall down.
Work is done for the day, let's go home and relax in the sauna.
Day five of the journey. Today, we will travel to the city of Ulan Ude by minibus.
Embarking on a journey, but with a reluctance to wake from slumber.
The journey is relatively easy, with good roads running along the shores of Lake Baikal. However, all you can see is white, as the ice is covered with snow.
This belief aligns with Asian traditions, where sacred places are believed to protect the surrounding areas, similar to roadside shrines.
People will pray for a safe journey.
The hot spring was similar to a natural spring, but with hotter water.
Continuing on, we stopped at a small village about 70 km from our destination. In the center of the village stood a quaint little church.
We have arrived in Ulan-Ude. We will be staying at a hostel tonight.
Day six: Visiting a local heritage village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Another day that I personally enjoyed very much, and it was definitely a highlight.
Before the evening, I will share my experience of taking the Trans-Siberian Railway from Ulan-Ude to Yakutsk.
Although it was a short journey, experiencing the atmosphere of this historic railway line was worthwhile.
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The ancient village in question has its culture listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the preservation of its traditions to this day.
This village is called "Tarbagatay".
We were incredibly fortunate to arrive on the day they celebrated the end of winter and welcomed the arrival of summer. (Although the weather wasn't exactly hot, remaining below freezing at around ten degrees Celsius. Where's the summer in that?)
Today, I had the opportunity to fully immerse myself in the local culture by witnessing traditional performances, games, and ceremonies.
The log sawing and weightlifting competitions were just like those seen in documentaries, and they were a lot of fun and laughter.
It's lunchtime... a true immersion into the culture of the Buryat people.
The Buryats are an indigenous people who have inhabited Siberia, specifically the areas east and south of Lake Baikal, prior to the arrival of the Russians.
The main city of the Buryat people is Ulan-Ude. Before the Russians established their main city in the area, it was Irkutsk.
After some time spent interacting with them, I have come to understand that the Buryat people often state that they are not Russian, and that they should be considered separate.
Cultures vary, with some leaning heavily towards Asian influences. Cuisine, however, blends Asian and European elements.
The guide proudly informed us that we were the first Thai group they had hosted to this extent, and that they were eager to share their culture with us. This sparked our curiosity and desire to learn more about their traditions.
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The food prepared for us included freshly baked bread, straight from the oven, and local vodka (I can't remember the actual name, haha).
This translates to:
"There are specific ways to drink, including toasting and everyone drinking together. They will be very happy…"
Now, let's move on to the highlight of the trip, where our fellow traveler will be entering the sacred bond of marriage! 555+
However, it is just a performance, a performance of the culture of dressing, proposing, and wedding ceremonies (all of which are just performances, but please look at my younger brother's face, hehe).
This is a truly stunning display of the bride's attire.
The groom, a French tourist, was accompanied by his wife and child, who watched anxiously from a distance.
I don't want to think about going home. What will it be like? 55+
After a successful courtship, they proceeded to the wedding ceremony.
The show ended with a flourish, complete with a trill. It was a lot of fun.
The party is over, let's continue our journey.
This time, the Trans-Siberian Railway route from Ulan Ude to Irkutsk
The journey takes approximately 6-7 hours.
Arrived in Irkutsk around 23:00 and checked into the hotel.
The last day, we departed from Irkutsk on an early morning flight, arriving in Thailand around three in the afternoon.
Small and insignificant compared to Lake Baikal.
The deepest point is approximately 1,642 meters, equivalent to the height of over 500 floors.
+ The average depth of the entire lake is approximately 745 meters, which is considered very deep.
The largest freshwater lake in the world, covering an area of 31,722 square kilometers (compared to Bangkok's 1,569 square kilometers), is significantly larger than the Thai capital.
Driving around the lake would cover a distance of 2,100 km (Mae Sai-Betong 2,043 km).
+ The lake is 636 km long, roughly the distance between Chiang Mai and Bangkok.
+ The widest point is 79 km.
+ The average winter temperature is -19 degrees Celsius, while the average summer high is 14 degrees Celsius.
Data source: Wikipedia, Google
The vastness of this lake becomes clearer when one considers how long the temperature must have been below freezing for the water to freeze solid enough to support a car.
I will stay in Irkutsk for a while longer and explore more of the city. I will then provide a detailed review of Irkutsk.
Please stay tuned for the next episode.
Thank you for following our exciting and flavorful journey.
Thank you... to everyone who joined the trip, who made the journey so colorful, and for bringing us together.
Thank you, Pantip, for providing a platform to share stories.
Thank you... for the journeys that constantly create new and unique experiences in life.
See you in the next review.
WitGoAway Traveller
Wednesday, February 26, 2025 4:57 PM