A Green Escape: Dan Dome Homestay in Chumphon

Seeking respite from the hustle and bustle of daily life, many yearn for a retreat amidst nature's embrace, where fresh air and breathtaking vistas soothe the soul. After an extensive search, we stumbled upon a hidden gem: Dan Dome Homestay, nestled in the serene embrace of Ao Kram village, Sawi district, Chumphon province. With eager anticipation, we packed our bags, grabbed our cameras, and boarded the express train, our hearts set on this verdant escape.

Ao Kram has two homestays: Ao Kram Homestay and Dan Dome Homestay (where I stayed). Both are located near the sea.

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Dan Dome Homestay is nestled in the heart of Ao Kram village, Dan Sawi district, Chumphon province. Surrounded by mountains, sky, and vast stretches of water, the homestay offers a secluded retreat. A small hill separates the homestay from the village, creating a sense of privacy. The local residents primarily engage in fishing as their livelihood.

Travel:

Day 0: BANGKOK – SAWI CHUMPHON

• I boarded the Sprinter express train (from Hua Lamphong) at 10:50 PM. Let me tell you, the air conditioning on the train was very cold, but they also provided blankets! The snacks on the train were delicious, oh my!

Day 1: Arrival in Chumpon

It's incredible that the Thai train arrived on time at 6:30 AM at Suea Railway Station. The morning rain created a pleasant atmosphere, with fresh, cool air and a light mist. Opening my bag, I took out my camera to capture the classic, minimalist ambiance of the station.

In front of the train station, there is a small market with food vendors. You can easily find breakfast there, such as hot pork blood soup with rice. The shop is located on the corner opposite the Si Wi train station. And to finish it off, you can have some deep-fried dough sticks dipped in condensed milk in front of the train station.

Steaming hot pork blood soup with rice

After finishing my meal, I called Aunt Nuan (093-6454428) to take me to the meeting point with Dan Dome. The distance was about 20 kilometers (costing around 300 baht). Aunt Nuan is a great conversationalist. I could understand some of what she said, but not everything. Her life seems quite unfortunate.

After driving for a while, we reached Dan Dome's meeting point. We said goodbye to Aunt Nuan and hopped into Uncle Jaks' car. The road to the homestay was a gravel path and quite steep, requiring careful driving.

Upon my arrival, I was greeted by Uncle Jak, who initially called me "James Ji." Initially confused, I didn't respond. After a brief conversation, I realized that "James Ji" was the name he used to address me. He proceeded to share various anecdotes, including the humorous claim that he was the driver and that the homestay owner was mentally challenged, prone to vulgar language, and a compulsive jokester. However, he later revealed that he was the one who had made all of these statements. Approximately five minutes later, we arrived at Dan Dome, named after his son. The village of Ao Kram seemed isolated from the outside world, as internet connectivity was completely absent.

At Dan Dome, there is a small viewpoint offering panoramic views of Ao Kram Village (located on the way to Dan Dome Homestay). The atmosphere by the sea is peaceful, the air is fresh, and there is a cool sea breeze. The people here live a simple life, and all the houses are located by the sea.

After capturing the scenery from the viewpoint, I walked into the accommodation. Aunt Chanya (Uncle Jak's wife), the eldest in the house, pointed me to my room. It was a spacious room with two large beds, mattresses, pillows, blankets, and a fan.

Alternatively, if you prefer to sleep outdoors, you can set up a mosquito net and enjoy the sea breeze on the front lawn. The property provides plenty of mattresses, pillows, blankets, mosquito nets, and fans (rest assured, there's enough for everyone staying here).

This entire room is now mine. I intended to take a shower, brush my teeth, and ride my motorbike to Ao Luk Kam. However, drowsiness overcame me, causing me to fall asleep in that filthy state. I woke up with a start at 12:00 p.m. (noon sharp, wow). It was time to get up, shower, wash my face, and brush my teeth (the bathroom here is pretty decent, by the way).

Aunt Jariya saw me wake up and take a shower, so she asked if I was hungry and if I wanted to eat. I said yes, because my stomach was starting to growl.

First meal here: Sour curry with bamboo shoots and fish + Stir-fried vegetables with shrimp and broccoli + Omelette and hot steamed rice. It may look like ordinary food, but the taste is incredibly delicious and not spicy. I ate it all without leaving a single morsel. I can't remember what it was called, haha! It was super fresh...

After finishing my meal, I took some photos to capture the atmosphere of Dan Dome Homestay. The place is incredibly simple, yet it exudes a rustic charm. I believe it's an ideal spot to bring a laptop and write reviews. The ambiance is perfect, and the inspiration flows freely. The tranquil setting, punctuated by the rhythmic sound of waves lapping against the stilts of the house, creates an utterly blissful experience.

Dan Dom Homestay offers two houses for accommodation: a large house and a small house. The house where I stayed is shared with Uncle Jak's family, which is the large house. The small house is located nearby within the same area, but with a separate entrance. This option is suitable for those seeking privacy and traveling with a group of friends. Both houses offer the same scenic photo opportunities at Dan Dom.

Dan Dome Homestay has been in operation for approximately 4-5 years, but it has not gained much popularity. This is because Uncle Jak never promotes it. He uses the traditional method of word-of-mouth. Dan Dome is like a private space, even though it is only a few steps away from the village. There are large and small houses available for accommodation. Uncle Jak does not accept many guests, no more than 20 at a time, because he wants to take care of everyone properly. He wants us to feel like we are staying at a relative's house, to have a good impression, and to want to come back again, just like me.

Strolling through Dan Dome Homestay, soaking in the atmosphere of every nook and cranny, we continued our walk, passing numerous fishermen's houses along the way. Eventually, we arrived at "Ao Kram Homestay."

"Ao Kram Homestay": A Home Away from Home

"Ao Kram Homestay" shares its name with the village it calls home. Activities here mirror those offered at Dan Dom, and the food is similar, though the flavors and service may differ slightly.

Adjacent to Ao Kram Homestay, there is a convenience store that offers a wide variety of goods, similar to a local "7-Eleven." Residents can find most of their daily necessities here.

After capturing the atmosphere of Ao Kram Village, I returned to my accommodation and borrowed a motorbike from Uncle Jaksan. I planned to ride to Ao Luk Kam Bay. Uncle Jaksan told me to return before 6:30 p.m. because he would be hanging out gas tank lanterns to attract squid at night and taking me on a boat ride before dinner. Hearing this, I quickly rode to Ao Luk Kam Bay, fearing that I would not be back in time.

I took this motorcycle out for a spin. The road was decent, but the engine struggled on the uphill climbs. On the downhill sections, the brakes barely held, and I almost veered off the road several times.

The image of the uphill and downhill climb cannot be captured. It has a thrill of its own. The road before reaching the village is an asphalt road. When I entered the village, it was a gravel road, and then I finally arrived at Ao Luk Kam.

Ao Luk Kam has a coastline that stretches from Ao Tung Kha and Ao Sawi to the mouth of the Takua Pa River in Takua Pa District. The beach is approximately 500 meters long and features white sand, smooth rock formations, and a mountainous backdrop. The general characteristics of the beach include white sand, suitable for swimming along the entire coastline, and a lush, mountainous backdrop behind the beach.

After posing for photos until they were exhausted, they immediately rode their motorbikes back, having spent only 15 minutes taking photos.

Venturing out to sea by boat, one will encounter clusters of poles standing tall amidst the azure waters, scattered throughout the bay. These structures serve as a unique fishing tool, employing a fishing net stretched across four wooden poles planted firmly in the seabed, forming a square-shaped net. This ingenious contraption is known as the "bame-muk," a traditional fishing method employed in the region.

Every evening, the villagers hang out gas tank lanterns to attract squid. The gas used is the same as the cooking gas we use at home, refilled by hand according to the knowledge passed down through generations. After hanging the lanterns, Uncle Juk took us on a boat ride to enjoy the scenery and the atmosphere before the last light of the evening faded away. As darkness began to fall, Uncle Juk took us back home by boat for a second dinner before heading out to catch squid that night.

Second Meal: Seafood: Stuffed squid with pork + Boiled crab + Fish with chili sauce. All the food looks delicious, and most importantly, everything is delicious!! I love the stuffed squid with pork... The eggs are full and the taste is delicious. It reminds me of when my grandmother used to make it for me when I was a child. The seafood dipping sauce is a perfect match. This meal was another happy meal. The food was fresh and delicious.

After finishing dinner, we relaxed and let the food settle. The night sky was filled with stars. As we sat and lay by the sea, we saw small lights floating above the water's surface. These were the lights of fishing boats sailing in the middle of the sea. It was the fishing season here.

Around 9:00 PM, Uncle Juk called us to participate in a local activity: taking a boat ride through the darkness to "bamหมึก" (a local fishing technique using light to attract squid).

"Squid fishing" involves using a net stretched across four wooden poles planted in the middle of the sea, forming a square shape. A gas lamp is then hung above the net to attract squid. Around 3-4 pm, the net is pulled up using a winch and rope, and the squid and other fish are scooped out with a dip net. The fresh squid can be eaten raw with seafood dipping sauce, offering a chewy, crunchy, and sweet texture. Alternatively, it can be grilled and enjoyed as a late-night snack.

The process involved hanging a gas lantern at a designated spot. Upon arrival, Uncle Jaks would instruct us to climb onto the winch and rotate it, causing the net to gradually rise above the water's surface. The squid and other creatures attracted to the light would become trapped within the net, making them easy to catch using a scoop. Any small, inedible, or poisonous fish caught would be sorted and released back into the sea. Uncle Jaks then took us to observe plankton at night, but I was unable to capture it on camera. Despite this, the experience was breathtaking. Sitting on a boat in the middle of the ocean at night was a beautiful and awe-inspiring experience.

As the fishing net is slowly lifted above the water's surface, squid and other creatures attracted to the light become trapped within the mesh, making them easy to scoop up with a swing net. The captured squid and fish are then sorted, with undersized, inedible, or venomous specimens being released back into the sea.

Fresh squid can be eaten raw, dipped in seafood sauce. It has a chewy, crunchy, and sweet texture.

This is the result of tonight's work. Uncle Jak said it was very embarrassing to sell, he really got very few squids. After returning from squid fishing, he took a shower, put on powder, and went to bed to watch the stars. The stars were very beautiful tonight. He prepared a tripod and set up the camera to take pictures of the stars. Oh my god! It started raining without warning. There was nothing he could do but put the camera away and sleep soundly until morning.

Day 2 # Koh Kula is located in the Mu Ko Chumphon National Park.

At approximately 6:30 AM, Uncle Juk knocked on the door to wake us up and prepare for our trip to Koh Kula. The weather was perfect, with clear skies, making it an ideal day for a boat trip to the island. (Koh Kula is not included in the package, but Uncle Juk offered a special price and split the cost among the guests staying at the homestay.)

The last meal was rice porridge with mackerel, which was eaten until full before going to Koh Kula. Before boarding the boat to Koh Kula.

"Koh Kula" is a small island with a great atmosphere and stunning natural beauty. It boasts beautiful coral reefs and crystal-clear waters, perfect for snorkeling and observing giant clams. Located just 15 minutes from Dan Dome Homestay, it offers a tranquil escape.

Uncle Jak took us on a boat ride to admire the scenery, including Hin Ta Lu, Hin Singto, Hin Thewada, and other rock formations.

The Angel's Hat Rock and the Pierced Rock

As Uncle Jaksan steered the boat, he shared the history of Koh Kula. He explained that the island's shape resembles a flying bat, and that sea turtles frequently lay their eggs there, hence the name Koh Kula (if my memory serves me correctly).
If you have the chance to visit, be sure to ask Uncle Jaksan for more details.

Ko Kula resembles a flying bat in shape.

An island shaped like a turtle.

The journey then took us to Koh Kula, where the crystal-clear water offered unparalleled views of the vibrant coral reefs. Upon arrival, we paid the park entrance fee of 40 baht per person (regrettably, I had forgotten to bring my national park passport). Koh Kula provides accommodation for overnight stays, or visitors can opt for a full-day trip without an overnight stay.

On Koh Kula, there is a breeding program for a species of turtle (I don't remember the name). Next time I go, I think the turtles will have grown larger.

Accommodation at the park: There are 3 houses available for rent at 1,200 baht per house, and there is a camping area.

(Electricity is available from 6:00 PM to 12:00 AM.) Three meals are provided for guests staying on the island (600 Baht/person).

The newly renovated bathroom offers exceptional convenience.

Approximately 200 meters from the beach near the pier, there is another beach with trees, swings, and hammocks. This is a perfect spot to relax and listen to the sound of the waves. The peaceful atmosphere makes it ideal for a getaway or simply enjoying a swim. During my visit, I felt like I had the entire island to myself as there were no other tourists around, giving me a sense of complete freedom.

Island Activities:

Scuba diving and snorkeling - There are coral reefs around the island and the beach here has clear water that is inviting to jump in and play.

Kayaking: You can paddle around the island and enjoy the natural scenery for free.

Captured the atmosphere both above and below the water perfectly. Now, let's lie down and listen to the sound of the waves for a while.

Returning to the homestay by boat, I glanced at my watch. It was almost noon, and my stomach was starting to rumble with hunger. I ordered a simple meal of seafood stir-fry with a fried egg to satisfy my cravings before heading back.

It's time to go home, but I don't want to leave yet. It was a relaxing trip, nothing special, but it was good for my soul. Today, Aunt Chanya dropped me off at the meeting point and waited for Aunt Nuan to pick me up and take me to the bus station.

I relaxed with a refreshing drink in a vintage car, reminiscing about the past (Chumphon - Surat Thani). I headed straight to the Chumphon Bus Terminal, where I boarded a bus to return home. This marked the end of my trip.

Dan Dome Homestay may be an ordinary accommodation that few people know about, but on a day when everything around you is chaotic and busy, if you can come and rest your body and mind here for one night, I think it's a great way to recharge your body and you will fall in love with nature like me.

Expenses: -

– Accommodation at Dan Dom Homestay + 3 meals + squid fishing activity 700.- / person

– Roundtrip transportation to the pick-up and drop-off point: 300 THB/person

– Roundtrip boat fare to Koh Kula: 800 THB (for 12 people)

– Landing fee: 40 THB

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